Map of the main pilgrimage routes to Santiago (at the far-left end of the red line). We started at Barcelona (at the far right of Spain), travelling NW to join the far-right of the red line (Jaca), and now travelling westwards midway across Spain.
We have arrived at Burgos – our half way point with 501.7 km
to go.– on Wednesday 16th, after a ‘short’ day of only 20 km. We enjoyed
a long entry walk into the city centre along a linear park adjacent to a river.
We were on the look-out for a particular bridge, where we would need to leave
the park and then locate our accommodation (hostel). However, the street names
were not visible from the river walkway, so we were puzzled regarding just
where our turn-off would be. At length another ‘angel’ came along (we’ve met
several on our pilgrimage). This angel looked very much like an old codger shuffling
his way along the path. When I greeted him, he responded positively, and seemed
interested to resolve our puzzle. However, his zero English, and our 2% Spanish
were not getting far even when we asked him to point out on the map just where we
were. That would have been sufficient for us. However, at that point he
gestured that he would walk with us to somewhere far, far ahead. I was not
convinced that he understood where it was that we needed to go, so didn’t know
whether to humour him by letting him guide us, or to give him the slip and find
our own way. Anyway, we slowed our gait so he could keep up, and at one bridge
he indicated that it was time to turn off. Then, he persisted in accompanying
us by a short-cut to our accommodation. This was yet another example of the friendly help we’ve experienced from unlikely quarters many times.
Anne with our Burgos angel
We had chosen that particular accommodation (a pilgrim’s
hostel) because of its name – Casa de Peregrinos Emmaus (this particular New
Testament Emmaus account means a lot to us) – and our choice turned out to be
another blessing on our pilgrimage. The building was a modernised classy affair
(sweeping marble stair-cases, various statues and art works), the staff (nuns)
were most gracious, the rooms were comfortable, and they included us in a short
devotion and pilgrim’s blessing in their chapel. We then shared a meal they
had prepared for us – and yes, including the mandatory bottle of red wine.
Next day was much more relaxing. In fact we relaxed at a bus
stop for two hours, waiting for a bus that turned out to be on holidays that
day. Upon discovering that, we walked three km to the address of a B & B
that I had noted in my diary book – No 20, Spanish Constitution Street. When we
arrived there, I rang the bell for Level 3, Unit C – and when I announced that
we were the expected guests, was told to go away! After some input from other
residents of the apartment building, and offers to make phone calls on our
behalf, I took out my mini-laptop so I could show them our bona-fides. I inspected
all the relevant emails concerning the address and discovered that our booking
was actually for No 29 (not 20) … Oops.
Finally, at number 29, we were warmly greeted by the Shortest
Woman in Spain. 
She is a lovely, warm, proper lady in her sixties, who showed us our
very comfortable bedroom and bathroom, how to buy a bus card, where the various
shops are located etc etc – all without a shred of English! There were however
some things that rapid Spanish and gestures could not convey, so we resorted to
Google Translate, which was a real help. For instance when I keyed in that we would
need to know where to catch the bus in the city area in order to get back home,
she keyed in her Spanish reply, and then beamed at me expectantly while I read the Google-English translation. Her reply read:
‘To return home on the bus, fuck Liberty Square’. Thank you
Mr Google.
I shall now relate a few experiences of
Good Friday, Easter Saturday and Easter Sunday Burgos style, with pics
In addition to a general stroll around the streets and
squares, we made a point of attending several of the traditional processions
for which Burgos is famous. Actually, we understand that most cities in Spain have
major parades focusing on Jesus’ death and resurrection. During the day on Good
Friday, we walked with a procession in which several hundred people accompanied
a group of priests from a church to hilltop castle, pausing at intervals to listen
to portions of scripture, to chant and to sing.
Between the daytime procession and the one at night, we
roamed the city and parklands. There is a sense of quiet orderliness
throughout. There are many modernised wide streets (and some narrow ones
containing countless bars (cafes serving exotic coffees, cakes, snacks – tapas –
and of course beers, wines and spirits).
Rest time
A cloaked figure assisting pilgrims across a stream
Dawn at a small town outside of Burgos when many Camino people start their day's walk
View from a hill overlooking Burgos
Ornate statue relating to a famous (and unlikely) miracle
Outside a typical village bar
Meal time at a hostel
Typical roof tiling
Almost all houses are securely fenced, with the level of security far exceeding what would seem appropriate. We think the practice may be rooted in the experiences of the Spanish Civil War. Here are some examples at a small village.
Burgos street scenes
Anne - forever inquisitive - mmm
Bob sitting with a fellow pilgrim
A real pilgrim
Burgos cathedral spires
Various alter backdrops (what are they really called?) in the cathedral
Wall sculpting
A typical 'box' - presumably containing the remains of a long-dead saint, bishop or whatever - with recumbent statue
Some of the locals
The river
View over Burgos from the hilltop castle
The following photos of crowds and formalities were taken at a lengthy daytime ceremony at the cathedral:
In the evening we attended a major procession. The series of photos provide a sample of the solemn, graphic, elaborate and ornate nature of the processions and floats. Equally impressive was the huge attendance – many, many thousands of mainly local people lining ‘miles’ of city streets, two, three and four deep, from 8:00 pm onwards. They waited patiently and quietly for a full hour before the leading sections arrived, slowly and solemnly stepped past us. The bands (brass and drums) played sometimes softly, sometimes loudly, always to a slow, solemn beat, consistently creating an overwhelming mood of solemn grandeur. This mood was echoed by the throng who watched on silently for a couple of hours till the last bands and processional floats passed.
We left the procession at about 11:15, intending to catch a bus back home (from the aforesaid square …) but were either too late, or the schedules were interrupted. In the event, we somehow found our way back home on foot by midnight, to the relief of our host.
On Saturday, Bob went out to a store specialising in sports and hiking wares, while Anne strolled the local streets, and bought ingredients for an evening meal that we’ll prepare for Sunday evening’s meal. At night, our host (Rosa) and a friend of hers intended to take us out to some sort of oldies’ dance. However, the venue was closed and light rain set in, so after an hour visiting a museum or two, we returned home (9:00 pm) to our Spanish-time evening meal. With the help of Rosa’s daughter and son-in-law, we enjoyed the conversation through the tasty meal of fish followed by cake until bed-time (11:30 pm). The rain had intensified, so we don’t know how that will interact with our Camino plans – we’re due to resume our walk on Easter Monday.
A city square at Burgos
Here on Easter Sunday, we’re beginning to feel a little cooped-up in this third-floor apartment. The planned Easter Day processions were cancelled because of light rain (which would damage historic statues on the many floats that are used). The others (our host and her friend and family) are out doing other things, and we’re now busy catching up on blogs, diary, journal, researching where and what to do in the period between arriving in Santiago mid-May, and leaving for Morocco on May 31.
Hasta luego
Roberto and Anna
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