Signing off from Spain

This post recounts some of our travel experiences within Spain during the second half of May, after our successful 1,000 km walk (Camino de Santiago) described previously. We had two weeks available because when planning the trip, we had allowed seventy five days for our Great Walk in case of ill-health, bad weather etc, but actually needed only sixty one. During the two available weeks we were able to slot in travel other places in Spain. We did this as 60 year old backpackers, using public transport to go from one place to the next. This was a life we thoroughly enjoyed and became skilled at reading timetables, finding our way through underground systems and searching for hostal accommodation upon arrival. We also experienced several travel adventures that helped build our characters! Skip these paragraphs if you wish.

After a three day rest period in Santiago, we took a train to Madrid. This ride took us away from the lush, green ‘Adelaide Hills’ type of landscape, through semi-arid heath-covered hills where plantation pine trees struggled to gain a roothold. Finally, hills gave way to plains and after a long tunnel, we emerged at Madrid at about 9:00 pm. We located a hostal and ventured onto the streets. Although it was late (10:00 pm+), the streets swarmed with the city’s four million inhabitants.

 

Next day, we boarded a hop-on-hop-off bus and toured the city, being impressed at its grandeur, countless old and modern buildings, classical history and that its buildings are well-maintained and kept very clean. That evening we became a little street-wise when, while Anne was following just a few steps behind me, I was warmly greeted by a scantily-clad young lady selling something … When Anne caught up, the young woman apologised profusely, lost interest in me, and proceeded to offer other unaccompanied men a cheery ‘Hola’  - and perhaps more. We sat down to an outdoor ice-cream nearby, and watched her and many other well-dressed young women at work. This is a scam Anne read about, being a ruse to induce men into bars where they would be tricked into buying many very expensive drinks in exchange for a friendly chat. My theory was that they were selling software of one kind or another …  

 

 

Christopher Columbus

 

Bullfights are still part of the culture and many cities have bull fighting rings

 

Next day, a bus trip to Valencia took about five hours through flat country and several stop-overs. Vegetation in this part of Spain was much drier, more like we’d imagined Spain would be. I went on another hop-on-hop-off bus to see the city while Anne went on her own self guided walked tour. I also went to the bus station to obtain tickets for our next day’s travel. This task kick-started the series of character-building adventures mentioned in the first paragraph of this post.

 city streets

 
Snails (above) and live eels (below) for sale at the Valencia
markets

 

 

 

Original city gates in Valencia

 

Skyline in the central city

 

 

It was important for us to get to a particular small town further along the coast, because we’d arranged this with private hospitality hosts there – but then discovered that no buses actually go to that town! I returned to the hostal and phoned our hosts, and set about making alternative plans – but our internet access had ceased to function. Later, after Anne’s return, we devised an alternative plan. We would take an early train to a city called Murcia, from where we would rent a car and drive to our destination village. Problem resolved, I again phoned our host to advise that we’d be there the next night.

We were up at the crack of dawn, enjoyed the six hour trip to Murcia, emerged from the station to the Avis car rental office, and enquired about booking a car. The good news was that they could supply a car, with one-way travel the way we wanted. The bad news was that the four-day rental would cost six hundred Australian dollars! We declined. We then walked to a nearby bar (café) where there was free wifi to clients, and again searched the web for the car rental deal we needed. Successfully! Four day’s rental, one-way to Granada for forty dollars total. The car was to be picked up from the Murcia airport. All we needed was transport from Murcia town to the Murcia airport! The Avis lady told us where the bus station was located, and we found our way to it. We obtained a ticket to the airport, very pleased with ourselves, and feeling very much like seasoned travellers who could handle anything.

Once aboard the airport bus and en-route, I began to feel a bit uneasy about the direction we seemed to be heading. Were my directional senses wrong? At length we arrived at the airport – but at the airport at Alicante fifty km up the coast in the direction we’d just come from, not the one called Murcia Airport. So there would be no rental car awaiting us. Unless, unless … What if the rental pickup point could be transferred? After all, it was the same company. Yes, yes? No, no? After long-distance phone calls and discussions with a very helpful lady, the answer was Yes, it could be transferred, we could pick up from Alicante etc etc, but No, it would cost us considerably more for the one-way portion. Given that it was now getting late, and our driving trip would now be six hours instead of four we spat the dummy and declined the whole rental affair.

So what next? Well the two seasoned travellers regrouped yet again, and found a hostal at Alicante for two nights, phoned our hospitality hosts yet again, to apologise profusely for our no-show, and , went to bed.

Alicante is a beautiful city. Better than our Gold Coast and Sunshine Coast beaches and with wonderful accommodation options all along miles of waterfront. We took a tram along some of it, and walked a couple km along the beach promenade. Perfect. We also walked up a small mountain to an historic fortified castle. The views from there over the city and beaches were absolutely wonderful. Also wonderful, was the food at the city’s new Indian restaurant. We had craved Indian food for weeks without being able to locate any, and this meal was excellent.

We spent a number of hours exploring the old castle, which gave amazing views from the top

 

 

 

 

Ahhh. Indian food at last.

Walking along the boulevard at dusk

 

 

The following day (Saturday) we took a bus from Alicante to Granada where a second hospitality host was expecting us on the Sunday.  The scenery between Alicante and Granada was fascinating, initially passing through a series of harsh, arid stony mountain ranges, perhaps like South Australia’s northern Flinders ranges – but with the valleys being filled with agricultural activities and large areas of semi-urban development and a series of cities. Huge areas of vines, citrus, almonds and olives continued to dominate. This moved into scenic mountains near Granada, some  peaks still snow-capped.

Lunar like mountain landscape

 



Intense cultivation in the valleys





rugged mountains nearing Granada

We arrived safely, and checked into a first-floor room overlooking The Noisiest Party Street in Granada. I actually slept quite well, but Anne stayed alert for hours while the drunken voices from the street below bellowed their beery songs.

And then it was Sunday, our first full day in Granada – and my sixty-sixth birthday!

We left the hostal late in the morning, ate at a nice breakfast place where the toast was more crispy than the usual warmed bread, and with help from a kind elderly couple, were soon on our way to out host’s house by public transport. We didn’t know at just which stop we’d need to alight, and the driver didn’t seem to understand me when I described that we needed to get off ‘at the fountain’. So when we arrived at the fringe of the district we’d named, he indicated that this was where we would need to get off. Doing so triggered another adventure!

Having alighted, we crossed the street to ask at a street-side café if we were somewhere near the fountain. They indicated that no, we were not anywhere near it! But if we were to just cross back over to where the bus dropped us off, another would come in, umm, one hour’s time and take us all the way. We reckoned we could walk, after all we’d just walked 1,000 km, and another six wouldn’t hurt us. But they insisted that it was all uphill, and how would we find our way through the tangle of streets anyway? Common sense prevailed and we decided we’d find a taxi, perhaps hoping that the café owner (who spoke good English), might phone for one. However, at that point, one of the men we’d been talking with (in Spanish and despairing gestures) got up from his table, indicated that we should just wait there for a while. He then set off walking down the street and – yes – wonderful assistance from yet another Spanish angel. He returned with his car, and drove us to our destination point!!!

Now to the last lesson for the day. When we got out of his car, I checked to make sure I had all our bags etc, especially my notebook from which I’d been showing them our destination address. It wasn’t to be seen. This notebook is semi-precious, containing not only my daily diary notes, but key addresses of future hospitality hosts etc etc. The man was poised to drive away so I frantically gained his attention, indicating that we were missing ‘something’. He understood no English and my phrase book Spanish didn’t quite suit the situation, so I just gestured as best I could that this ‘something’ was either still in his car or somehow left back at his street café. He was keen to move his car on from where he was obstructing traffic, so off he went. We searched our possessions some more, but no, my precious notebook was lost! Bugger!

So what now! We regrouped yet again. Reasoning that if/when our driver angel and his helpers back at the café found the notebook, they would seek to return it to us. But then how could they know where we’d be? We further reasoned that they would return to the same drop-off point, just hoping to locate us. So Anne waited exactly where he’d dropped us off, while I tried to remember the street address where our hostess awaited us nearby. Fortunately, that was easy. I explained our predicament, and that Anne was across the road in the hope that our book would somehow reappear. And – it did!!! The man had discovered it somewhere in his car and immediately returned with it – doubtless in the corresponding hope that one of us would await just this scenario. So Anne too arrived at our final destination, both of us extremely relieved!!!

Our hospitality hostess and her daughter chatted with us, and then gave us a tasty lunch. After all it was only 4:00 pm and that’s when lunch is eaten in Spain. Later they kindly took us to see the grounds of an historic castle known as Alhambra and also walked us around other fascinating parts of the city – a preview perhaps of some of the sites we will see in Morocco. We were home by 9:30 – it is still daylight at that time – and Anne and I ate my birthday tea at a nearby pizza shop and were in bed by midnight.

We subsequently returned to the Alhambra and found it most fascinating – the ‘castle’ blends the influence of successive Islam and Christian dominance over the past 1,000 years.

 

Intricate art work from the Isalmic culture adored walls and ceilings

Granada city viewed from the Alhambra

 

A stay in the seaside town of Malaga, and another in Algeciras brought us to the point where tomorrow (Friday) we catch a ferry to Morocco,

As a ‘pilgrim’ and as a ‘tourist’ we know we have only scratched the surface of all there is to see and do. 

There are still many things we puzzle over, and our limited language skills mean that we haven’t been able to either ask or all the questions we wanted, or to understand the answers. Much to her disappointment, Anne has never really understood Spanish food. Apart from the hours of eating being so very different to what we are used to, so is the variety in food portion size. Sometimes we get so much we can barely eat it and at other times so little we need to fill up on ice cream....and we never really know the reason for the difference!

 

Things that have surprised us is the great diversity in landscape and culture across the country, along with the density of population in its relatively small area.

In the cities especially there is a sophistication beyond that of Australia.  This is not only in the physical setting with the grandeur of the buildings, but also in the appearance of the people, for no matter the time of day both men and women are very smartly dressed.

The strength of family is very evident as people of all ages gather in bars, cafés and city squares to socialise.  It is very common to see women in their 40's out walking with their parents or to see older couples all dressed up and out walking arm in arm. Children are obviously very loved, with babies and toddlers being passed from one adult to the other around the family’s restaurant table. It is not unusual to see children up and alert at 10 pm or later – we don’t know how they manage it, as our few days of living to a Spanish timetable left us exhausted.

We have experienced only friendliness and assistance when required and have never felt uneasy or in danger.

 All in all its been a marvellous time and we sign off on Spain with only fond memories.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Over the mountains and down the valleys to Santiago

Yes, we have arrived at our end point of Santiago de Compostela  

Before reflecting on the Camino as a whole, we would love to share photographs of the road we travelled in the last two weeks. We crossed three mountain ranges in order to enter the province of Galicia and were blessed to have clear sunny skies throughout this whole journey which gave rise to amazing views. Being mid-spring, the mountain sides were like an artist’s palette, smothered in pink, purple, violet, yellow and white flowers. Having already walked so far, we were fit and able to climb the daily 400 to 700 metres required without difficulty, and also enjoy the unfolding scenery. Walking in high country puts a different perspective on things. To be part of the remoteness, to feel the sky above and see so much of the world around, makes one feel  so very small but yet so very special in the order of creation.

Lunch at the highest point

 

 

 
 

  
 

 

Morning mist fills the valleys

 
 

 

 

What an abundance of colour, making walking such a delight

 
 

 

 

We reluctantly left the mountain tops, but then walked into a patchwork of green as we descended into the fertile agricultural valleys. Paddocks in the height of spring growth, hedges, rock walls, small gardens planted with summer crops, cows being led out to pasture – all helped make walking a delight. The villages in Galicia were different again, as one enters them through the farms and along roads covered with fresh cow dung. Having been brought up on dairy farms, it’s something we were used to, but anyone without a farming background would really notice the smells.  We bought cheese from a kitchen window, fresh from the woman’s hands and it was absolutely delicious.

 

 

 

 

Home made cheese - delicious. Now in Santiago we are also enjoying other local cheeses purchased from the markets. The goats' cheese is very good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was only in the last 3 days that we walked through more transitional country of oak and pine forests and eucalyptus plantations. Gum trees were introduced to Galicia in the 1950s. While they seem out of place to some, we loved walking through them and just regretted that they don’t have the same aromatic smell that gums have in Australia. The moist conditions in this province supports an abundance of ferns that grow along the shaded paths.

 

 

 

 

 

Gum trees on one side and oak forest on the other

Then it came to the countdown: 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 days walking to go to reach Santiago. We arrived on Wednesday 14^th at 2:00 pm, and as pilgrims have been doing over centuries, walked into the square in front of the Cathedral with a mixture of emotions.... pride, humility and thankfulness mixed in with some disbelief of what we had just completed. Pilgrims who walk at least the last 100 kilometres are entitled to a certificate (written in Latin!) acknowledging their walk: we also collected a certificate of the distance walked.

The next day we attended the Pilgrims' Mass in the cathedral - this is held every day and many pilgrims attend. The seating capacity is 1,000 and all seats were taken. This also gave us the opportunity to again meet people that we had travelled with at some point in time.

 

 

 

Our "Compostela" and Certificate of distance walked

 

 

 

A well deserved beer!!

 

 

We were both ready to stop walking but at the same time we will miss the rhythm and routine of it. We are so thankful for the many blessings of our trip – safe travel, good health, good weather (sometimes cold and windy, but with very little rain), enjoyment of each other’s company, meeting a range of people ….. the list can go on. These things well outweigh some of inconveniences we experienced.

Many books have been written about the Camino, and it is not our intention to write another. However, permit us a few reflections. The Camino is unique in that it is accessible to a wide cross-section of society: people of all ages and physical abilities can walk it. We would have seen many aged 70 or above on the path, and spent a few days crossing paths with Dave from America who is vision impaired and with his ‘blind’ stick to help guide him. He was accompanied by his father. We also met Danish grandparents who were walking the last 100 km with their 10 and 8 year old grandchildren (we envied them). People can walk the Camino at very little cost or can make it a 5 star holiday, because the infrastructure on the main French Way supports all options.

People walk the Camino for various reasons and it is one’s motivation that will shape the meaning of the experience;:for some it appears to be just a long pub crawl, for others a time and distance trial, akin to a marathon or triathlon endurance challenge to see just how far they can travel day-in-day-out. For others it provides time and space in which to make an important personal or career decision. For still others, it is a deeply moving spiritual experience. Although rooted in Christianity the Camino of today is certainly not the ‘pilgrimage’ of old and we often felt that the word ‘pilgrim’ is a bit rich for the average user of today.

As for ourselves:

From Anne

When we started planning our walk it seemed a little unreal, especially the thought  of walking 1,000 kilometres. The idea of resorting to a bus or train for much of it seemed a strong probability. The crazy idea is now a reality and with that comes a great sense of achievement. I am much stronger physically and mentally that I ever thought I could be: the fears I had didn’t eventuate and if they had, I now know I would have been able to deal with them. 

Time on the Camino gave me time to just ‘be’ and there was a great freedom in not having to think about planning and visioning that had been part of my life for so long.  I learnt to love the rhythm of each day and felt great contentment with the simple routines of walking, eating, sleeping, repeated day after day.

I learnt that some things matter and many don’t. Those that don't are invariably related to possessions - either getting them or keeping them.  If there is one lesson that I would like to take with me into the 'real' world, it is this one.

To walk across a county and be so close to nature – especially in spring – opened my eyes to the world around me, and to the many references to nature in the Bible. To have time to let one's mind wander where it will -  be it the past or future -  to listen, to think of friends and family  and pray for them while walking have all been spiritual luxuries. To do the walk together with Bob has been a very special experience for us as a couple.

We know people who have walked the main route of the Camino three times or more.  There are others who start planning their next walk as soon as they finish the first. For me, the journey on this path has ended. I will always regard this time as a unique and don't regret a minute of it and would be the first to recommend it to anyone who is even remotely interested.

 

From Bob

 
These ideas commenced just one day short of our destination – Santiago – in the NW corner of Spain. In the past two months I have walked 1,000 km from Barcelona in the far east-south-east of Spain (on the Mediterranean). My muscles have been stretched, my sinews, joints and bones have endured demands never before made of them. Physically, I have not been found wanting: feet, ankles, knees and hips (all pretty important for long-distance hiking) have been equal to the task. The same for my back, shoulders and all other physical functions. The list of ills that did not befall me could be quite long! Indeed, if there’s one insight that I gained is that both on this long walk, and through life in general, most of our blessings are unnoticed – as if we are entitled to everything going nicely for us all of the time. I know that this is not an original insight, but it’s good to be reminded. There is a strong sense of achievement – that I can set myself a distant goal – and arrive! I recall similar thoughts when I completed my PhD (five years ago already).
My mind too has had the opportunity to be tested and stretched. At this point in my life I did not need to ‘find myself’, or to take time out to work through any of life’s perplexing issues. Mentally/spiritually my thoughts have roamed far and wide. I have reflected and evaluated my past (sobering) and visualised what my future may hold (a risky business). I reflected on those who gave the general shape of who I am: my parents; my siblings; the friends of my youth; the people I have met and loved. My mind progressed to those to whom I have provided with (and still contribute to) a ‘general shape’ – our five children, three sons-in-law and one daughter-in-law; our nine grandchildren. One by one I commended these and others I love to God’s blessings as they walk through their lives.  

I have welcomed my lessons in history, geography, agriculture, cultural studies, sociology and psychology that these two months have brought. My classroom has been the physical landscape, and through the interactions between ourselves, the Spanish people, and with fellow-pilgrims. I can interpret and locate all these lessons within the fabric of my previous life experiences.

Sharing it all with Anne has been important. Many times I thought to myself ‘What if I were doing this all alone?’ If that were the case, I think I would have abandoned the whole idea as ‘stupid’ and taken a bus direct to Santiago. But sharing yet another adventure with my wife has added much meaning and purpose.

One definition of ‘pilgrimage’ is: ‘a purposeful journey to a sacred place’. For me, my journey has certainly been purposeful. To a sacred place? If Santiago is sacred for me, it is only because of the pilgrim throng that has previously considered it so and undertaken the arduous trek.  I feel no necessity to pay homage at the reputed final resting place of St James, Jesus’ brother.  However, I am humbled and inspired when I realise that I have joined the millions (!) of people who have done so, both in ancient times, and all over again in recent decades.

At the end of my pilgrimage, I feel at peace with God and man.

 From both of us

We are now resting in Santiago for three days and enjoying replacing the pilgrim’s hat with the tourist’s mantle. We are ready to walk the streets gawking at new sights and to sometimes spend a few dollars on coffee and snacks we don’t need; to feel free to change our mind at whim, sometimes turning left instead of continuing straight ahead, just because we might want to.

On Sunday we will take  a train to southern Spain (where temperatures are warm at last), then a ferry ride to Morocco, and to the adventures that await us there. And then more adventures to unfold elsewhere in eastern and central Europe before the end of the year.

So for today it’s signing off on a rare and epic adventure, and anticipating the new ones that await us. We will keep the blog going and hope you will continue to share our journeys.

 

A few lines from a Pilgrim's Prayer:

"Although I may have seen all the monuments, and contemplated the best sunsets; although I may have learned a greeting in every language or tasted water from every fountain; if I have not discovered who is the author of so much free beauty and so much peace, I have arrived nowhere".

 

 

This map highlights the various Camino routes across Spain. We can't highlight our route, but we trod paths named Catalan, St Jaume, Arogones and Frances to Santiago at the far top left of the map