The title belies our experience! Alright, we are a bit
weary, but it’s marvellous what a day’s rest, and a glass or three of red can
do!
We now are at a small city called Huesca in central eastern
Spain, having walked 240 km in the past 16 days. We’ve loved strolling through the
quiet rural countryside, with fields of barley and of rye lying on either side of the river … experienced
strong chilly headwinds, and enjoyed the warm hospitality shown by the townsfolk
wherever we’ve been. Parts of our hike evoke images of Jesus travelling with
his disciples through similar fields (OK, in another country, but the mental images
seem to be the same …). At other times, we sense the long history – Roman times,
and the evidence of many subsequent conflicts and conquests of which modern-day
Spain (along with Europe in general and even Australia) is a result. Hopefully
we enrich this text with a few photos. We marvel every day at the richness of
our generalised Western heritage embodied in both the ruins and modernisation
in rural and urban situations alike. For example, large-scale farming and
modern city buildings sit alongside of evidence of subsistence farming and ‘tribal’
warfare of previous eras, while medieval city walls are incorporated with 20th
century city planning. Everywhere, we continue to be surprised that pretty much
everyone lives in multi-story apartment buildings within city/village confines.
We are also constantly amazed, and more often confused, by
eating customs – times and what people eat – so we regard every food order at a
café as part of our journey. Today for instance, on a bleak wintry day, when we
envisaged hot soup for lunch, we were served two cold mussels …? OK, followed
by small platters of other menu items. But it’s just not like the food of home!
We’ve walked through and stayed at towns that provide wonderful
views of the surrounding countryside. Expansive, vast views of agricultural
crops, almonds and native trees, with the snow-capped Pyrenees as a backdrop.
Worth every drop of sweat (except it’s been so chilly cold …).
As an aside to my (Bob’s) academic colleagues, you may be
surprised to learn that I haven’t given a thought to Bayesian Networks etc.
Whatever thoughts of UQ that cross my largely vacant mind are those of ‘pity’
for those who still serve out their sentences, unaware that freedom is
achievable in their own lifetime … Perhaps I owe you a profoundly philosophical ‘meaning
of life’ presentation when I return safely …
BTW: We’ve decided to modify slightly our Camino route.
Tomorrow, we will take a $10.00 train ticket from Huesca to Jaca, cutting out
75 km of walking in exchange for certainty of accommodation and removing the
risk of rain when walking through long stretches where there are no food
supplies - that could greatly interfere with our plans and safety.
Sunday 30th March. We appreciated a warm night’s
sleep in the comfort of a hostel – a three-star hotel room ($50.00 a night).
Among other things, we found the railway station, where in halting Spanish to a
disinterested attendant who professed no knowledge of English, I said that we
would like to go to Jaca tomorrow by train, and would like one-way tickets. He
duly wrote down the times of travel, the cost, and processed our ticket
purchase. A considerable achievement!
Also today, we happened to walk into a cathedral just as a
worship service was beginning. In stark contrast to our local Brisbane place of
worship, this cathedral was huge, ornate, full of golden statues and artistic depictions
of Biblical events. We could vaguely relate the liturgy to our traditional
Lutheran way of doing things. Impressed by female reader, and the priest’s
singing to the accompaniment of his guitar. Also the ‘passing of the peace’ – a
truly universal church, for all its failings of one kind or another.
Light rain set in on the cold day, and we longed for plates
of warm soup and the Sunday roast. Mmmm. What we found at one of the many
bars/restaurants/cafes was OK, but in no way matched our Australian dreams.
More thoughts?
We so appreciate the small expressions of warmth shown to us
strangers. For instance, yesterday, when we arrived in Huesca, we were
delighted to accept the hospitality of an elderly gentleman (he may have been
my age …), who offered us a ride in his car from the free pilgrim’s hostel, to
a commercial hostel where we would have free wifi and other comforts.
Where both parties want to communicate, even few common
words suffice.
Chance encounters greatly enrich our experience – friendly ‘angels’
who show us where to find food and shelter, unexpected vistas – some undeniably
magnificent in their own right – others trivial – like Hairy MacLairy and his
band of town dogs who we met at Pueyo de Fananas (Hairy MacLairy is a NZ children’s
book series – for those without small children in their lives). Soon after
arriving at Huesca our ears were assaulted by a deep, semi-rhythmic drumming.
Eventually, we ventured onto the streets to find out what on earth it could be.
In fact, it was a parade of some forty bands from surrounding regions, all in
traditional regalia, pounding and beating drums in an organised procession down
the main street. All a prelude to the real event of Holy Week, just three weeks
off. What a fascinating sight and sound!
Photos to follow when we have good wifi access and time
Looks like the stars have aligned ...
Carpenter, electrician, whatever ...
Where did I come from mama?
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