Across the plains

This week we have walked and walked about 150 kilometres across the legendary and ‘dreaded’ Meseta. The Meseta is a large flat hilltop area made up of gentle rises and plains. Many pilgrims find this stretch monotonous but we loved it.  We walked through miles of early-stage cereal crops where the horizon stretches all the way to the left and the right while the track stretches out in front and behind. Being mostly flat it was very easy walking and we did longer distances over a number of the days.

 

you may notice the trees blowing in the wind

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We still see snow on distant mountain peaks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lunch breaks are always welcome. This day we found a sheltered spot out of the wind

 

 

 

The view from one side of the hill........and then the other

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Several sections of the walk went on long sections of Roman roads. The notable features of these is that they are very straight and built up about a metre above ground level with layers of rock. This is even more amazing because the geology of the area meant that rocks are not plentiful, with traditional village buildings being made of clay and mud brick, so the stones and rock for the roads had to be transported in. 

 

 

An old Roman road stretching out in front

and behind

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Many of the villages were small and with the older clay dwellings commonly in a state of disrepair. They reminded us of old farm buildings around the Murray Flats and mid north of South Australia. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shepherds tend their sheep, going with them into the paddocks as they graze. Here he is bringing them home to the village at the end of a day.

 

 

The history though was a different story, with our guide book relating how many great historical figures and races lived here in the past and of many barbaric battles being fought and lives lost.

Old Roman bridges

 

Old City walls, over a metre thick and made up of millions of stones

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The king

The king's tomb

 

This area also featured 'bodegas' which are small cellars built into the hillsides. These were or still are, used for the storage of wine and cheese....or in some cases now used for lawn mowers and junk. With their cave like appearance we expected to see hobbits or gnomes appear out of them.  

We looked out for hobbits

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These round structures are seen in many places. We think we were or are used for storing grain

 

 

 

The chill winds of spring remained with us. One day was particularly unpleasant when we had to walk across a long straight stretch with an ice-cold head-wind blowing.  It was a 17 kilometre walk before the first village, where I think every pilgrim stopped for coffee or something stronger to help warm up.  One woman said her smartphone had registered a temperature of minus 1 degree.  As we are required to leave the albergue (hostel) by 8 am in daylight saving time it means that the sun is barely up when we start walking.  In spite of the cold, are thankful to be walking this part of the Camino in Spring, as there is little shade and it would be extremely hot in summer.

 

 

Some of the alberges have heaters and have them going. Others don't seem to think its cold enough!

 

With a morning of light drizzle we also had a chance to try our new ponchos. These are designed to cover our rucksacks as well as ourselves, and appeared to be quite effective. Having walked for six weeks it is amazing that we have only needed rain protection twice.

 



Anne in her new raincoat

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It may only seem a small thing but in the last week we were thrilled to have fresh warm toast for breakfast on one occasion, and bacon and eggs on two occasions.  Purchased breakfasts are typically made up of juice, coffee, sweet cakes or pastry or 'dried' crunchy 'toast'. (Like the small dried croutons we can buy but in bread size)    Where possible we buy yoghurt the night before and have that, along with a stop for tea or coffee.  It’s interesting how a small thing like breakfast can be so culturally different.  When staying in Rosa's home in Burgos last week her custom was to serve tea or coffee first in a large cup and then use the same cup for cereal, rather than a separate bowl. The 'toast' is placed on a serviette instead of a plate. The sweet cakes and pastries served for breakfast are sold in bulk  in the supermarkets.

 

Rosa and her family and friends in Burgos

 

 

We are now taking another two-day break at Leon, a large and attractive city.  We are using the time to rest, do some writing and to visit some of the many attractions.  This time we are staying in a hotel and will take the opportunity to try some foods that are not normally available to us.  It is also another milestone in our journey, having completed 700 km and only 300 km to go.

 

 

Salted pigs trotters for sale for only $1 each

 

 

Even in the cold, the ice cream tasted good

 

 

 

Time for a beard trim

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leon cathedral at night

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Much is written about the social aspect of the Camino. What typically happens is that the people who start their trek on the same day get to know each other by sight, and those who begin as solo walkers may very early on form loose social groups. Some of these groups remain for the whole walk; others change as people move in or out of them depending on personalities, walking speed, rest breaks etc.  Some find they prefer to walk alone; others need the company.  Because we joined the main ‘French Way’ at a point several days after the main start point, and because we stop and take regular rest breaks, the groups of people we meet changes frequently. To be multi-lingual would be such an advantage especially in the evenings, when many times there are only a handful of people in the albergue who speak English.

We have had several communal meals at an albergue

 

During the last week we often deliberately walked at different speeds from each other during the day, thus giving us the chance to experience walking solo.  We have considered walking quite separately for a few days at a time, but there are a few logistical things that make this difficult, e.g. only one electrical adaptor plug for charging the technology that each of us carries, one phone in case of emergencies and needing to be certain that there is watertight plan to meet up again!  We'll see how the terrain and weather impact upon this idea over the remaining two weeks.