Across the plains

This week we have walked and walked about 150 kilometres across the legendary and ‘dreaded’ Meseta. The Meseta is a large flat hilltop area made up of gentle rises and plains. Many pilgrims find this stretch monotonous but we loved it.  We walked through miles of early-stage cereal crops where the horizon stretches all the way to the left and the right while the track stretches out in front and behind. Being mostly flat it was very easy walking and we did longer distances over a number of the days.

 

you may notice the trees blowing in the wind

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We still see snow on distant mountain peaks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lunch breaks are always welcome. This day we found a sheltered spot out of the wind

 

 

 

The view from one side of the hill........and then the other

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Several sections of the walk went on long sections of Roman roads. The notable features of these is that they are very straight and built up about a metre above ground level with layers of rock. This is even more amazing because the geology of the area meant that rocks are not plentiful, with traditional village buildings being made of clay and mud brick, so the stones and rock for the roads had to be transported in. 

 

 

An old Roman road stretching out in front

and behind

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Many of the villages were small and with the older clay dwellings commonly in a state of disrepair. They reminded us of old farm buildings around the Murray Flats and mid north of South Australia. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shepherds tend their sheep, going with them into the paddocks as they graze. Here he is bringing them home to the village at the end of a day.

 

 

The history though was a different story, with our guide book relating how many great historical figures and races lived here in the past and of many barbaric battles being fought and lives lost.

Old Roman bridges

 

Old City walls, over a metre thick and made up of millions of stones

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The king

The king's tomb

 

This area also featured 'bodegas' which are small cellars built into the hillsides. These were or still are, used for the storage of wine and cheese....or in some cases now used for lawn mowers and junk. With their cave like appearance we expected to see hobbits or gnomes appear out of them.  

We looked out for hobbits

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These round structures are seen in many places. We think we were or are used for storing grain

 

 

 

The chill winds of spring remained with us. One day was particularly unpleasant when we had to walk across a long straight stretch with an ice-cold head-wind blowing.  It was a 17 kilometre walk before the first village, where I think every pilgrim stopped for coffee or something stronger to help warm up.  One woman said her smartphone had registered a temperature of minus 1 degree.  As we are required to leave the albergue (hostel) by 8 am in daylight saving time it means that the sun is barely up when we start walking.  In spite of the cold, are thankful to be walking this part of the Camino in Spring, as there is little shade and it would be extremely hot in summer.

 

 

Some of the alberges have heaters and have them going. Others don't seem to think its cold enough!

 

With a morning of light drizzle we also had a chance to try our new ponchos. These are designed to cover our rucksacks as well as ourselves, and appeared to be quite effective. Having walked for six weeks it is amazing that we have only needed rain protection twice.

 



Anne in her new raincoat

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It may only seem a small thing but in the last week we were thrilled to have fresh warm toast for breakfast on one occasion, and bacon and eggs on two occasions.  Purchased breakfasts are typically made up of juice, coffee, sweet cakes or pastry or 'dried' crunchy 'toast'. (Like the small dried croutons we can buy but in bread size)    Where possible we buy yoghurt the night before and have that, along with a stop for tea or coffee.  It’s interesting how a small thing like breakfast can be so culturally different.  When staying in Rosa's home in Burgos last week her custom was to serve tea or coffee first in a large cup and then use the same cup for cereal, rather than a separate bowl. The 'toast' is placed on a serviette instead of a plate. The sweet cakes and pastries served for breakfast are sold in bulk  in the supermarkets.

 

Rosa and her family and friends in Burgos

 

 

We are now taking another two-day break at Leon, a large and attractive city.  We are using the time to rest, do some writing and to visit some of the many attractions.  This time we are staying in a hotel and will take the opportunity to try some foods that are not normally available to us.  It is also another milestone in our journey, having completed 700 km and only 300 km to go.

 

 

Salted pigs trotters for sale for only $1 each

 

 

Even in the cold, the ice cream tasted good

 

 

 

Time for a beard trim

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leon cathedral at night

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Much is written about the social aspect of the Camino. What typically happens is that the people who start their trek on the same day get to know each other by sight, and those who begin as solo walkers may very early on form loose social groups. Some of these groups remain for the whole walk; others change as people move in or out of them depending on personalities, walking speed, rest breaks etc.  Some find they prefer to walk alone; others need the company.  Because we joined the main ‘French Way’ at a point several days after the main start point, and because we stop and take regular rest breaks, the groups of people we meet changes frequently. To be multi-lingual would be such an advantage especially in the evenings, when many times there are only a handful of people in the albergue who speak English.

We have had several communal meals at an albergue

 

During the last week we often deliberately walked at different speeds from each other during the day, thus giving us the chance to experience walking solo.  We have considered walking quite separately for a few days at a time, but there are a few logistical things that make this difficult, e.g. only one electrical adaptor plug for charging the technology that each of us carries, one phone in case of emergencies and needing to be certain that there is watertight plan to meet up again!  We'll see how the terrain and weather impact upon this idea over the remaining two weeks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Easter Enchantment

 

Map of the main pilgrimage routes to Santiago (at the far-left end of the red line). We started at Barcelona (at the far right of Spain), travelling NW to join the far-right of the red line (Jaca), and now travelling westwards midway across Spain.

 

We have arrived at Burgos – our half way point with 501.7 km to go.– on Wednesday 16^th, after a ‘short’ day of only 20 km. We enjoyed a long entry walk into the city centre along a linear park adjacent to a river. We were on the look-out for a particular bridge, where we would need to leave the park and then locate our accommodation (hostel). However, the street names were not visible from the river walkway, so we were puzzled regarding just where our turn-off would be. At length another ‘angel’ came along (we’ve met several on our pilgrimage). This angel looked very much like an old codger shuffling his way along the path. When I greeted him, he responded positively, and seemed interested to resolve our puzzle. However, his zero English, and our 2% Spanish were not getting far even when we asked him to point out on the map just where we were. That would have been sufficient for us. However, at that point he gestured that he would walk with us to somewhere far, far ahead. I was not convinced that he understood where it was that we needed to go, so didn’t know whether to humour him by letting him guide us, or to give him the slip and find our own way. Anyway, we slowed our gait so he could keep up, and at one bridge he indicated that it was time to turn off. Then, he persisted in accompanying us by a short-cut to our accommodation. This was yet another example of the friendly help we’ve experienced from unlikely quarters many times.

 

Anne with our Burgos angel

 

We had chosen that particular accommodation (a pilgrim’s hostel) because of its name – Casa de Peregrinos Emmaus (this particular New Testament Emmaus account means a lot to us) – and our choice turned out to be another blessing on our pilgrimage. The building was a modernised classy affair (sweeping marble stair-cases, various statues and art works), the staff (nuns) were most gracious, the rooms were comfortable, and they included us in a short devotion and pilgrim’s blessing in their chapel. We then shared a meal they had prepared for us – and yes, including the mandatory bottle of red wine.

 

 

Next day was much more relaxing. In fact we relaxed at a bus stop for two hours, waiting for a bus that turned out to be on holidays that day. Upon discovering that, we walked three km to the address of a B & B that I had noted in my diary book – No 20, Spanish Constitution Street. When we arrived there, I rang the bell for Level 3, Unit C – and when I announced that we were the expected guests, was told to go away! After some input from other residents of the apartment building, and offers to make phone calls on our behalf, I took out my mini-laptop so I could show them our bona-fides. I inspected all the relevant emails concerning the address and discovered that our booking was actually for No 29 (not 20) … Oops.

Finally, at number 29, we were warmly greeted by the Shortest Woman in Spain.

 

She is a lovely, warm, proper lady in her sixties, who showed us our very comfortable bedroom and bathroom, how to buy a bus card, where the various shops are located etc etc – all without a shred of English! There were however some things that rapid Spanish and gestures could not convey, so we resorted to Google Translate, which was a real help. For instance when I keyed in that we would need to know where to catch the bus in the city area in order to get back home, she keyed in her Spanish reply, and then beamed at me expectantly while I read the Google-English translation. Her reply read:

‘To return home on the bus, fuck Liberty Square’. Thank you Mr Google.

 

 

I shall now relate a few experiences of Good Friday, Easter Saturday and Easter Sunday Burgos style, with pics

In addition to a general stroll around the streets and squares, we made a point of attending several of the traditional processions for which Burgos is famous. Actually, we understand that most cities in Spain have major parades focusing on Jesus’ death and resurrection. During the day on Good Friday, we walked with a procession in which several hundred people accompanied a group of priests from a church to hilltop castle, pausing at intervals to listen to portions of scripture, to chant and to sing.

 

 

Between the daytime procession and the one at night, we roamed the city and parklands. There is a sense of quiet orderliness throughout. There are many modernised wide streets (and some narrow ones containing countless bars (cafes serving exotic coffees, cakes, snacks – tapas – and of course beers, wines and spirits).

Rest time

A cloaked figure assisting pilgrims across a stream

 

 

 

Now some photos of The Way through the villages and countryside prior to Burgos

 

Dawn at a small town outside of Burgos when many Camino people start their day's walk

 

View from a hill overlooking Burgos

 

 

 

 



Ornate statue relating to a famous (and unlikely) miracle

Outside a typical village bar

Meal time at a hostel

 

Typical roof tiling


Almost all houses are securely fenced, with the level of security far exceeding what would seem appropriate. We think the practice may be rooted in the experiences of the Spanish Civil War. Here are some examples at a small village.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Burgos street scenes

 

 

 

 

 

 Anne - forever inquisitive - mmm

 

 

 

 

Bob sitting with a fellow pilgrim

 

A real pilgrim 

 

 

 

Burgos cathedral spires


Various alter backdrops (what are they really called?) in the cathedral

 

Wall sculpting

 

A typical 'box' - presumably containing the remains of a long-dead saint, bishop or whatever - with recumbent statue

 

Some of the locals

 A sweeping, bridge

The river

 

 

 Bob's encounter with a bull!




View over Burgos from the hilltop castle

The following photos of crowds and formalities were taken at a lengthy daytime ceremony at the cathedral:

 

 

 

 

 



In the evening we attended a major procession. The series of photos provide a sample of the solemn, graphic, elaborate and ornate nature of the processions and floats. Equally impressive was the huge attendance – many, many thousands of mainly local people lining ‘miles’ of city streets, two, three and four deep, from 8:00 pm onwards. They waited patiently and quietly for a full hour before the leading sections arrived, slowly and solemnly stepped past us. The bands (brass and drums) played sometimes softly, sometimes loudly, always to a slow, solemn beat, consistently creating an overwhelming mood of solemn grandeur. This mood was echoed by the throng who watched on silently for a couple of hours till the last bands and processional floats passed.

We left the procession at about 11:15, intending to catch a bus back home (from the aforesaid square …) but were either too late, or the schedules were interrupted. In the event, we somehow found our way back home on foot by midnight, to the relief of our host.

On Saturday, Bob went out to a store specialising in sports and hiking wares, while Anne strolled the local streets, and bought ingredients for an evening meal that we’ll prepare for Sunday evening’s meal. At night, our host (Rosa) and a friend of hers intended to take us out to some sort of oldies’ dance. However, the venue was closed and light rain set in, so after an hour visiting a museum or two, we returned home (9:00 pm) to our Spanish-time evening meal. With the help of Rosa’s daughter and son-in-law, we enjoyed the conversation through the tasty meal of fish followed by cake until bed-time (11:30 pm). The rain had intensified, so we don’t know how that will interact with our Camino plans – we’re due to resume our walk on Easter Monday.

 

 

General pics around Burgos

 Cathedral

 

A city square at Burgos

 

Severely-pruned trees that are ubiquitous in Spain. Careful inspection shows that these are pruned and grafted in such a way as to link to each other

 

 

 Statue of the famed El Cid

 

Here on Easter Sunday, we’re beginning to feel a little cooped-up in this third-floor apartment. The planned Easter Day processions were cancelled because of light rain (which would damage historic statues on the many floats that are used). The others (our host and her friend and family) are out doing other things, and we’re now busy catching up on blogs, diary, journal, researching where and what to do in the period between arriving in Santiago mid-May, and leaving for Morocco on May 31.

 

Hasta luego

 

Roberto and Anna